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Part. 4 Central Norway – Kristiansund via Rondane Park to Koinge (SE)

This is the last part and our way back to Poland. By the time we reached the ferry, however, we found Central Norway to be no less stunning than the Fjords. If we had known about this earlier we would have planned more time in the region. But well … you will have to come back.

Day 9:

Kristansund – Rondane – Frya 330 km, 5h

Route: https://goo.gl/maps/qFPjxjYTEUxgtpgi9

That day our retreat begins. In my imagination, it was already supposed to be simply a drive towards home. As usual, I was hugely mistaken. Indeed, the biggest positive surprise of the trip awaited me. While I was most disappointed by the Atlantic Road, I was most surprised by Rondane National Park, from which I expected nothing but forests. It is Norway’s oldest national park, established in 1962 with an area of 963 kmΒ². It has many peaks over 2,000 meters high. Rondane Park is also considered a habitat for herds of wild reindeer. We didn’t come across any individuals. Among the practical advice in case of an encounter with a reindeer, I read, among other things: do not approach closer than 500 meters, so as not to cause panic among the animals with your presence. Any more violent movement, even reaching for the camera, will cause an escape. It was not specified whom πŸ˜‰

What may be important in the park is that you can walk off designated trails and pitch tents. The rule is to not leave any trash behind! If there is no general ban, you can light a bonfire. You can fish in lakes and rivers after buying a permit. Live fishing is not allowed. This is also from a practical guide to the region.

I won’t get theoretical here. An exquisite place, fantastic roads, overwhelming peace and quiet. Passing cars were very rare here. You have to watch out for roadside sheep, which liked to lie there hidden and look at those passing by.

The landscape has changed incredibly. It has acquired completely different colors. There was still no shortage of water, streams and lakes in the landscape. Well, in a word, we liked it. The most stretches where I saw a winding highway and another couple of turns ahead. You could get a very pleasant buzz. These were no longer tight serpentines. It was simply an uninterrupted ‘flow’.

The overnight stay that awaited us this time was also located in a camping area. Very nicely, by the way. Run, as it turned out, by a Pole who has lived in Norway for a dozen years. He was not present during our arrival, but we were met with a pleasant surprise.

Room and shared bathrooms very ok. However, I do not recommend breakfast… The cafeteria turned out to be a room that probably did not remember daylight for centuries. The smell did not encourage people to stay there. Without breakfast, I recommend the place as much as possible.

Family room with shared bathroom, 648 NOK =~ 285 PLN/3 = 95 PLN/person, bedding for a surcharge, restaurant, possible breakfast 44 PLN/person. – Here it was weak very much. Although run by a very friendly Pole, he made the place into such a workers’ hostel. And you can feel it. It is not worth taking breakfast.

Frya Leir

Frya Leir, 2630 Frya, Norway, Frya, NO


Day 10:

Frya – Valdresflye – Oslo,355 km, 5h 30min

Route: https://goo.gl/maps/Nbwy4cAQ2Vt6k7Me8

Day 10 of our trip is a continuation of yesterday’s tour. We are getting closer and closer to Oslo, leaving Rondane behind.

We have a lot of time on our hands, so roadside cafes do not remain indifferent to us. Cosmic grassy roofs never cease to make me laugh. I don’t have the faintest idea why. I like them very much, of course.

In such good spirits we say goodbye to Rondane and arrive in Oslo.

Here accommodation in a townhouse in the heart of the city. You can freely walk to the main marina and the old town. Downstairs of the townhouse is a cafe that offers breakfast with coffee at a discounted price. I’m thinking to myself now that our trip might as well have been called “Norway – the coffee route.” But it was really good. Once we ordered 2 black coffees and tea. The gentleman brought three cups and a two-liter thermos. One with boiling water, the other with coffee. Such places were also on our route 

Cochs Guesthouse

Parkveien 25, Frogner, 0350 Oslo, Norway, Oslo, NO

Four-person room with shared bathroom, 1,260 NOK =~ 554 PLN/3 = 185 PLN/person, with bedding, no breakfast, parking on the street. Great place, super located. Delicious breakfast and coffee at the bottom of the townhouse.

Day 11:

Oslo- Koeinge 393 km, 4h 30min

Route: https://goo.gl/maps/Cz8NgLMUAMuiJhtaA

The route from Oslo, such no longer too special. Mainly expressway. The temperature jumped to 27 degrees, so we were dying from the heat after the last 10 days in 10-15 degrees. Well, unless some coffee at a gas station happened and a cycling race on occasion.

Well, and for a change πŸ˜‰ πŸ˜‰ about the last night I will write you something more. Because it’s worth it! If you will be roaming around Sweden somewhere and will be even a little bit on your way take a look. But it is very necessary. First of all, the area itself is worth the drive. A whole web of narrow asphalt streets, smooth as a table. They stretch between lakes, groves, farms. Super ride. Well, and somewhere in the middle of nowhere there is just such a guesthouse. Run by an elderly couple. He is Swedish, she is American. They decided in retirement to take possession of the property and make it a spa. It worked out perfectly for them. You can see that this is their great passion. Accordingly, each room is equipped with a set of bathrobes, slippers, spring water and an exit to the terrace. In the bathroom, of course, all kinds of towels. In the garden, to which you go through a sort of orangery, there is a sauna with a large window through which you can enjoy the view of the garden. You can also watch from the living room sitting inside the sauna. That’s another story. We don’t know if she didn’t just cause the host’s lack of presence in the morning. The owner said she would accept payment. The husband is at the office and working πŸ˜‰ Breakfast was American style. In every bite you could sense the enormous heart put into the preparations by Mrs. Wife. A fantastic place to end the trip. I highly, highly recommend it. With bliss on our faces, we drove to Karlskrone in the morning.

And so ended our trip. The next morning we already found ourselves in a different reality. Cheerful this time to the point of exaggeration. We were greeted by 34-degree heat. In these temperatures, I was not able to last very long in my helmet.

Thanks to this report, I was reminded of how much I want to return there. This time to the north and perhaps by a slightly different route. Someday for sure. In the meantime, thank you very much, but thank you very much for your attention ?

Traditionally, the last information about the accommodation base this time:

Ameriden Bed and Breakfast

KΓΆinge 120, 311 61 Ullared, Sweden, Ullared, SE

+46 72 516 45 53

Double room with extra bed, 985.50 SEK =~ 396 PLN/3 = 132 PLN/person, with breakfast, reserved parking, sauna, jacuzzi included.

Fantastic place to end a trip !!! The owners are an elderly couple who wanted to have such a spa resort. The only thing missing to the level of a 5* hotel is an elevator. I highly recommend it if you are on your way. In the area a whole bunch of great roads, beautifully located, they lead through villages, near lakes, through forests. You can relax and it is very relaxing.

Day 12 is all about getting back on the ferry to Gdynia …

Thank you very much for your attention to those who made it to the end of the report ?